Hat Making Process

Hat Learning: Embellishment
The Bandeau I am sure you have seen pictures of those cute little period hats (fill in the date) where the hat is cocked just perfectly to the left or right, front or back as it sits upon the head? Well, that is achieved through the use of a bandeau. A decorative piece that sits inside the bottom of the hat that offers a permanent tilt to the hand. Some hats even seem to sit sideways on the head. The hat can be positioned to be however high or low that you want it. Bandeaus are always beautifully decorated and add extravagance, and definitely attitude, to the hat. The following instructions will provide you with a basic understanding of how to build and decorate a bandeau. Here is the photo of the hat on my head without the bandeau and with the bandeau. (Please note that I had to take photos of my head while looking in a mirror ;>( )
Hat straight - no bandeau	Hat tilted with bandeau.
Start by measuring the area inside of the hat where the bandeau is to reside. Keep in mind that the bandeau can be set to tilt the hat any direction.
Cut a piece of buckram the shape and length as required. The books recommend that the bandeau be straight across the top and go into the hat about an inch. It is then moon shaped on the bottom.
Cover the buckram by hand so that the stitching doesn't show. I used the white silk from the hat. I wanted this bandeau to be conservative since the hat has a more tailored look to it.
The next step is to embellish the covered buckram in the area that will show out from under the hat. Again, I wanted this to be tailored and used the tiny little flowers that I had on the top and bring them down to the bottom.
I made a long tube of the silk and then gathered it on one side. I did not press the silk because I wanted the silk to be less controlled. I stitched it to the covered buckram so that it would stand upright and stick out. I hand stitched the flowers in as well. Sort of ruffles on their edge.
The next step is to pin it into the hat in place.
Then stitch it into place. If you do this after the hat is lined, it can be stitched to the lining but it is best to pick up some of the buckram tabs as well for stability. I used millinery or heavy duty thread to stitch it into place. Note that I used a curved needle - my second best friend!